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Free worked example

Example chicken coop plan, start to finish

Small coop with attached predator-proof run. This is a real output from the chicken coop calculator — nothing blurred, nothing withheld. Change any dimension and yours regenerates instantly. Estimates only, never a quote.

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Hens
4
Coop
6×4 ft
Run
10×6 ft
Per hen
21 sqft
Siding
t1-11
Nest boxes
1

Scaled diagram

Top view · coop + run
CoopRun6×410×6

How to read this: the drawing is to scale but not to the inch. Always measure your real site before cutting — these are estimates only, not a construction document.

Full shopping list

Foundation skids (PT 4×4 × 8')
2 ea × $28
$56
Floor joists (PT 2×6 × 8')
7 ea × $18
$126
Floor deck (3/4" PT plywood)
2 ea × $42
$84
Wall studs (2×4 × 8')
26 ea × $6
$156
Plates (2×4 × 12')
6 ea × $8
$48
Sheathing (7/16" OSB 4×8)
5 ea × $28
$140
Siding (t1-11 4×8)
5 ea × $48
$240
Metal roof panels (3×10)
3 ea × $55
$165
Nest boxes (pre-built)
1 ea × $45
$45
Roost bar (2×2 × 8')
1 ea × $8
$8
Coop pop door + hardware
1 ea × $90
$90
Run posts (PT 4×4 × 8')
7 ea × $22
$154
Concrete for run posts (50lb)
14 bag × $7
$91
1/2" hardware cloth (4×25 roll)
4 roll × $65
$260
Fasteners (nails, screws, staples)
4 lb × $12
$48
Incl. 10% waste ($282)$1,711

Cut list

  • Skids ×24×4 × 6'
  • Floor joists ×72×6 × 4'
  • Wall studs ×262×4 × 5'
  • Run posts ×74×4 × 8'
  • Roost bar ×12×2 × 4'

Before you start — do these four things

  1. Measure twice, on site

    Re-measure every dimension at the actual location and compare it to the numbers in this guide before you buy or cut anything.

  2. Call 811 before you dig

    Free, and required in most areas. Wait for the utility locates before any post hole, footing, or excavation.

  3. Confirm permits and codes locally

    Spans, footing depth, setbacks, and heights are set by your local building department — their answer overrides this guide.

  4. Safety gear on, every step

    Eye and ear protection, gloves, dust mask when cutting, and a helper for anything you can't lift alone.

Estimates only — verify measurements, prices, and codes locally. This guide is not a substitute for an engineer or your building official.

Pro method, plain English

How the pros build this chicken coop

Predator-proof floor and skirt, framed shell with ventilation above roosting height, hardware cloth everywhere, doors and nest boxes for daily access.

2 people, 2–3 days

Tools a pro shows up with

  • Safety glasses
  • Work gloves
  • Hearing protection
  • Circular saw
  • Impact driver
  • Tin snips
  • Staple gun or poultry staples
  • Framing square
  • Level

The numbers pros work to

  • Coop space3–4 sq ft per standard bird inside, 8–10 sq ft in the run

    Crowding drives pecking and disease.

  • Roost8–12 in of bar per bird, higher than the nest boxes

    Birds roost at the highest point — if nests are higher, they sleep (and soil) in them.

  • VentilationAbout 1 sq ft per bird, above head height, draft-free

    Ammonia and moisture cause respiratory illness; drafts at roost level cause chill.

  • Predator mesh1/2 in hardware cloth, screwed with washers — never chicken wire

    Raccoons open chicken wire and staples pull out.

General guidance based on common residential practice. Your local building department has the final say — estimates only, never a quote or an engineered design.

  1. Step 1: Base and predator barrier

    Almost every loss happens from below or through a weak fastener.

    Cutaway diagram of a chicken coop showing nesting box, roosting bar, ventilation vent, pop door, and attached wire run
    1. 1.1 Build the floor frame on skids and sheath it solid.

      Pro standard

      Skids keep the floor off wet ground and let you move the coop.

      In plain English

      Runners under the floor keep it dry and let you drag the coop to fresh grass.

    2. 1.2 Run an apron of hardware cloth 12–18 in out from the perimeter.

      Pro standard

      Horizontal skirt defeats diggers better than burying mesh straight down.

      In plain English

      Lay wire flat on the ground around the coop. Diggers hit it and give up.

    Before you move on: Floor solid and level, skirt staked flat, no gap larger than 1/2 in anywhere.

  2. Step 2: Shell, roosts and nests

    Layout decides how clean the coop stays.

    Cutaway diagram of a chicken coop showing nesting box, roosting bar, ventilation vent, pop door, and attached wire run
    1. 2.1 Frame the walls and roof, keeping roosts above the nest boxes.

      Pro standard

      Roost above nest height prevents nest-sleeping.

      In plain English

      Put the perch higher than the nesting boxes or they'll sleep in the boxes and make a mess.

    2. 2.2 Add ridge or gable vents above roost height, screened with hardware cloth.

      Pro standard

      High vents exhaust ammonia without blowing across the birds.

      In plain English

      Vents up high let the bad air out without making a cold draft on the birds.

    Before you move on: Vent area meets the per-bird target, roosts highest point inside, nests dim and low.

  3. Step 3: Access and hardware

    If daily chores are awkward, the coop stops getting cleaned.

    1. 3.1 Fit a full-size cleanout door and an exterior nest-box lid.

      Pro standard

      Design for a shovel and a five-gallon bucket.

      In plain English

      Make openings big enough to actually get a shovel in there.

    2. 3.2 Use two-step latches raccoons can't work.

      Pro standard

      Raccoons defeat simple hook and slide latches.

      In plain English

      Use latches that need two motions — raccoons genuinely can open simple ones.

    Before you move on: All openings screened, latches two-step, cleanout reaches every corner.

What goes wrong most often

  • Using chicken wire as predator protection — it only keeps chickens in, not predators out.
  • Under-ventilating a tight coop, which causes respiratory problems.
  • Nest boxes higher than the roost.

Permit checkpoints

  • Set your state for localized rules

    Permit thresholds, frost-line depth, and fence-height caps vary a lot by state. Pick your state above to tailor this checklist.

  • Confirm chickens are allowed in your zone

    Most cities allow backyard hens (3-6 birds) but many prohibit roosters and set minimum lot sizes. Some require a permit. Call your city's animal-control office before you start.

  • Setback from property lines and house

    Coops commonly require 10-25ft from any neighboring dwelling and 5-10ft from property lines. Verify locally — this varies widely.

  • Call 811 before setting run posts

    You're setting fence posts on concrete footings — call 811 3 business days ahead.

  • Bury hardware cloth or use a full-perimeter apron

    Raccoons, foxes, and dogs dig. Either bury the run's hardware cloth 12" deep or lay a 12" apron of hardware cloth flat on the ground around the perimeter.

  • HOA rules on livestock

    Many HOAs prohibit chickens. Get written approval before you build.

Rules vary by city and county — always confirm with your local building department. Estimates only, not a permit determination.

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